Talk Polo Shirts with IndridCoId - A Guide to Casual & Business Casual Dress
by u/IndridCoId (2015)
Before we start…
So I know polo shirts are a polarizing subject around here. If you don’t like the look of them, that’s perfectly fine. You are most certainly entitled to that opinion and I don’t fault you for having it. The fact remains, however, that polos are popular and they’re not going anywhere anytime soon. Why not wear them well?
This guide aims to help those who don’t have an aversion for polos find the good ones or, for anyone curious, to maybe learn something they didn’t previously know.
Criticism is fine, but let’s keep it constructive. Thanks for understanding – let’s get on with it :]
Why the hate?
Not too long ago, someone started a thread polling MFA users on what one item they understood or liked the least. The runaway “winner” was the polo shirt.
What?? Less understood than drop crotch pants?? Hated more than boat shoes?!? This is madness!!
Couldn’t believe what I was reading - I’d go as far as saying that polos are a staple item in any man’s wardrobe. Finding one you’d like shouldn’t be too difficult. They come in tons of styles and can be made from a variety of materials. Considering how many men’s clothing brands carry/make polos (literally hundreds), you should be able to find at least one that flatters your form and suits your fancy. Polos can be rrreallll comfortable too – maybe not as comfortable as your favorite t-shirt, but hey, you can’t wear that to work, now can you? Furthermore, a well-fitting polo can look pretty damn smart and help to accentuate a good physique. Not saying they’re bad for those of us who aren’t in the best of shape, but they look especially nice on dudes with some lean muscle to ‘em.
^ your button-ups and OCBDs don’t quite do that.
Obviously, I’m big on polo shirts. I think I have 15 or 16 (at last count) in a pretty good assortment of colors and styles. Trying to understand the Anti-Polo camp, I put myself in their shoes and looked for the negatives. I’m wondering if popped collars, boxy fits, massive logos, and that they’re kinda known as “frat boy” shirts are contributing factors toward the bias against polos. I mean…ya..these are all horrific:
^ Douche City, no doubt about it. Bear with me though – I want you to push frat style and bad ‘Casual Friday’ bizcaz fits out from your memory. Let’s start fresh. Let’s start…from the beginning.
Origins
Despite the “polo” name, it was actually Lacoste than created the shirt, not Ralph Lauren. Back in the day, (nearly a century ago) tennis players wore oxford cloth uniforms called “tennis whites”. The shirts were long-sleeved, had a bit of a stiff collar, they restricted motion, and were rather warm…which wasn’t ideal at all for such an active sport. Rene Lacoste, a tennis star himself, created what he called the “tennis” shirt – made from a looser weave pique cotton with short sleeves, a soft collar, a buttoned placket, and a slightly longer backside. Now known as the “tennis tail”, this helped the shirt to stay tucked in while running about the court. These were considered significant improvements – the shirt was quickly adopted and it’s still popular among professional tennis players and golfers today. Rene was also responsible for the logo later added on the left breast; his nickname was “The Crocodile”.
After retiring from his sport, Rene teamed up with Andre Gillier, a friend and clothing manufacturer, to mass produce the shirt under the newly formed Chemise Lacoste company.
So where did the “polo” in “polo shirt” come from? Well, similarly, polo players (the horseback croquet-meets-soccer game) wore uncomfortable wool knit uniforms. They took notice as Rene’s tennis shirt gained in popularity and made the switch. The Hurlingham Polo Club (Argentina) began embroidering the shirts with a logo depicting a polo player. Over time, the “tennis shirt” just became known as the “polo shirt”. It wasn’t until the 1970’s that famed designer, Ralph Lauren, included the style of shirt in his “Polo” line. Borrowing from Hurlingham, an embroidered logo of a polo player his pony was sewn onto the left breast. So, what once was only worn for sport became a staple in summer style for men everywhere. The rest is history.
Ralph Lauren apparently said that he wanted his clothes and brand to exude a bit of “WASPishness”.
^ Bougie as fuck, am I right? Mission accomplished. Any wonder why the polo shirt is so commonly associated with prep style? While I don’t hate prep (I dabble from time to time), I think it’s a little costumey for most folks. The polo shirt CAN be worked into any man’s wardrobe and I intend to show that – let’s talk everyday Business Casual and Casual dress.
Let's start with some inspiration:
^ While I don't like every fit in that album, I can appreciate how varied these looks are. There really should be something for everybody when it comes to polo shirts.
Distinguishing Features
Collar
Polo collars aren't all that dissimilar to button-up shirt collars – they can come in spread, point, cutaway, or button-down. Some are made to lay flat along the back of the neck and collar bone while others are made to stand at attention.
Collar types will be covered extensively in sections to follow. One aside: Polos look a bit stuffy when worn with the collar buttoned – leave at least two of those buttons open.
Sleeves
Polos come in both short and longsleeve options. Both are great, but it’s the shortsleeve type you’ll see most often. Some polos have slightly longer “shortsleeves” that end below the bicep. While these look closer to the original, I don’t find them to be very flattering. The more modern polo has sleeves ending mid-way down the bicep. Pique cotton polos will often have a cuff made from a ribbed material that hugs the arm. Some find this to be uncomfortable, but I haven’t had an issue with it.
Longsleeve polos can also be made into casual or more formal versions. The latter is a really underappreciated piece. I’ve dubbed it the “Perfect BizCaz Shirt” – a hybrid between polos and button-up dress shirts. These look just as well over a pair of jeans as they do under a sportcoat or in a suit. Though l/s polos are still somewhat under the radar, I have been seeing them more and more lately. If you’re bored of your usual business casual outfits, try introducing one of these into your wardrobe.
The sleeves feature barrel cuffs and two buttons – one on the cuff and another on the sleeve placket (just like a typical dress shirt).
Plackets
Unlike a button-up shirt, the placket on a polo shirt only has three or four buttons (like a henley). Some brands/designers add more, but those are few and far between. The placket itself extends from the top of the collar to about the middle of the chest. Some brands beef their plackets up by making them 2-ply (two layers of material sewn together). These are noticeably thicker than most other parts of the shirt; sturdier too.
Tennis Tail
Mentioned this briefly earlier in the guide – you may have noticed that a lot of polos are longer in the back and they are in the front. That is, of course, intentional. This was first innovated to serve a purpose (to better keep your shirt tucked). Most folks keep their polos untucked these days, but that part of the design has managed to stick around anyhow. Not all brands make them this way, but most still add that extra inch – call it tradition.
Types/Uses/Materials
The Original – Pique Cotton
Can be worn year-round since pique cotton comes in different weights and tighter or looser weaves. The thicker the fabric is and the tighter the weave, the warmer the shirt. The thinner the fabric is and the looser the weave, the cooler the shirt.
Because of its weave, pique cotton does have an obvious texture. Though sportcoats, suits, and other articles of clothing are sometimes made from pique, this material is most often associated with polos.
Pique cotton polos can be dressed up (to a degree) and dressed down (also to some degree). They can just as easily be worn with pressed chinos as they can with some well-loved denim jeans. As a result, these are favorites on ‘Casual Fridays’.
Button Down Collar
Traditional polo shirts have collars that lay flat around the base of the neck and will often warp after being run through the washing machine a few times. Button-Down polos solve that problem beautifully. This type stands up nicely and even gives the collar a slight roll to it – exactly what you’d hope for in an Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt.
Because these collars stand upright, they can be layered and not look out of place. I sometimes wear mine with sportcoats – keeps me that much cooler in the summer months.
Relaxed Cotton
The more “relaxed” polos should only be worn in casual outfits. These polos are made from thin and smooth cotton. These can be worn interchangeably with t-shirts and are great lightweight shortsleeve or longsleeve options from spring to fall. The collars are going to “bacon” a bit with these – embrace it. They’re supposed to be casual shirts, after all.
Indigo/Chambray
Full disclosure - I don’t have much experience with these. They’re clearly meant to be another casual option – you wouldn’t wear one of these to the office. These have the appearance of denim, but they’re nowhere near as stiff or dense. They’ll have a little more heft than ‘relaxed cotton polos’, however. These don’t really fit into my style, but I included them in this guide because I can easily see them working well in others’ wardrobes.
Wool/Blends
Again, these can be worked into casual fits as well as business casual fits. Just as with pique cotton, wool can come in varying weights and warmth. I find these to be somewhat of a rare breed. It’s not too often you find polos in wool and cashmere options.
While I like them, just keep in mind that they will pill overtime and it seems there’s always going to be stray fibers poking out.
Long Sleeved Polo
Love ‘em. You may have seen my dedication to longsleeve polos yesterday where I tried to show their versatility. I learned that r/all wasn’t much of a fan, but maybe you will be!
These can be made into more casual shirts (ribbed cotton cuff) or more formal shirts (buttoned barrel cuff) though they’ll always lean more casual. Just as with Button-Down polos, these can be layered under sportcoats or, if you’re feeling like doing something different, with the right kind of suit. Check out my l/s polo album for examples:
Fit
How the shirt fits matters more than anything else about it. Yours could be made from the finest materials and cost a small fortune, but it’s no good to you unless it fits. Let’s take a look at Dan Trepanier here for a good example of proper fit:
Shoulders – see where the seam connecting the sleeve to the body of the shirt lays on Dan’s shoulder? That’s the sweet spot – his polo shouldn’t feel snug across his back and his arms will move unrestricted.
Body – Let’s turn our attention to the sides of Dan’s torso. The fabric of the shirt should skim his body, not hug it or show a noticeable amount of excess material. The shirt follows the lines of his body without clinging to it.
Sleeves – Dan’s sleeves end about midway down his bicep. Any more than that and your polo is probably too big on you. Also notice how Dan’s arms fill out the sleeves, but not to the point where they’re constrictive.
Hem – Shirts that are meant to be left untucked should end just a couple inches below your belt. If it’s shorter than that, you may need a larger size. Longer than that and the shirt may to be big on you.
Having a hard time finding a good fit? You CAN go custom/Made-to-Measure if you prefer. They’re a bit pricey, but check out these guys and see what can’t be done: Vastrm
Brands
Too numerous to name them all – instead I’ll speak a bit on which brands I highly recommend, the ones I find to be kind of middling, and which to absolutely stay away from. Feel free to add your own suggestions in the comments.
The "Nah":
H&M – Good news and bad news. The good: they’re inexpensive. The bad news: They’re inexpensive because they’re so poorly constructed and they’ll fall apart or warp after two washes.
Calvin Klein – Meh. Don’t know that I’ve ever found one that wasn’t entirely polyester.
LL Bean – made well, but as you might expect, they’re roomier than most of us would like.
Express – You thought American Eagle, Hollister, Aeropostal and Abercrombie were bad with their obnoxious branding? Express is WAY overpriced. I can’t fathom how they justify their retail prices when everything they make is sssssssssssoooooooooo shitty.
Gap – The GAP’s quality continues to decline. I feel like there’s almost no discernable difference between them and their factory items. R.I.P Gap.
The "Worth Checking Out":
Vineyard Vines – if you’re from the North East then you’ve heard of Vineyard Vines. They make polos in all kinds of easter egg colors – not bad, but nothing to write home about.
Original Penguin – If you like the look of contrast plackets and piping then this is your brand.
American Eagle – ahhhhhh high school. I was an AE teen – didn’t have the funds for Abercrombie & Fitch as a youngin’ but I imagine they were similar. These polos are a little overpriced, but they weren’t that bad, actually. I’ve seen some with huge eagle logos and establishment years across the chest, but the more minimal designs aren’t terrible.
Tommy Hilfiger – just keep in mind that there are levels of quality with TH. The stuff you pick up in Marshalls isn’t the same as what you’ll find in one of their stores. Despite a lot of it being overbranded (and ugly), they’re decent polos.
Target – pretty good for the price. Luxurious, these aren’t, but their “tailored” polos are certainly worth their $15 price tag.
Burberry – Expensive, but the quality is there. Fitted. Be wary though – they somehow NEED to inject their plaid pattern into everything they do.
Ralph Lauren – I’m not that big fan of these. Blasphemy, I know. They’re certainly well made, but there’s something I find unflattering about their fit and style. I actually think their design for women’s polos was more successful. I’m only talking about their Polo line here – no experience with polos from their high end tiers. They sometimes really overdo it with their logo too…takes up 1/3 of the shirt…
Banana Republic – bought a few too many polos from BR over the years. Theirs are usually blended with a bit of some kind of elastane material so they stretch some. I like 100% natural fiber clothing, but that’s just me. These will be somewhat softer to the touch because of it. I’ve heard good things about the “Luxe Touch” polos they’ve put out over the last couple of years – definitely more bizcaz than casual. Have some sheen to ‘em that I don’t much care for though.
The "Abbbbsolutely":
It’s no secret around here that I love Jcrew. That said, I’m not a big fan of their pique polos. There are better out there for around the same money (or cheaper). Their [broken-in polos] are great though. Lighter in weight than most t-shirts I’ve owned. Absolutely fantastic for summer.
Champion of the buttondown collar polo. Made from “Dri-Fit” cotton (cotton/poly), but for these, I’ll make an exception. Great for the summer months – if you sweat, no matter, the material dries out quickly. The collars stand right up allowing you to use them under sportcoats if you like (and I do like).
Uniqlo has also run a couple polo collaborations with Michael Bastian. Some looked like they were dug up from a time capsule buried in 1965, but others were really nice looking. They sold out in a heartbeat in 2013; lasted a little longer in 2014. Maybe they’ll put out another line this summer?
They’re new (and haven’t launched their first line yet), but definitely on my radar. This post on Style Forum caught my eye – checked out their site and came away really impressed. I’ve written them to ask about their prices and approximate debut date. I’ll edit this if/when I hear back. Looks like they’re operating out of the SanFran area if any locals are interested. Keep an eye on these guys!
One of the best. Brooks Brothers has been producing polos almost as long as anybody and it shows. They were early adopters (well before Ralph Lauren) so I’d put them in the same category as Lacoste. For the svelte fellas out there, just be wary of BB’s rather generous fit. Be sure you’re getting their slim or extra slim cut before you buy.
The original and still one of the best. They’re probably the first to come to mind when you think of polo shirts and for good reason. I own one in navy. I’ve worn it without caution for 13 years. Sure, the color’s faded a little, but it’s held up remarkably well. The collar is still in good shape too. Are they worth the $80? Ya, they probably are.
Cream of the crop. While KW doesn’t have the history that Lacoste, Ralph Lauren, and Brooks Brothers do, he’s certainly made a name for himself (and quickly). I’d first heard of his brand about two years ago but only recently pulled the trigger on a couple pique cotton l/s polos and they immediately became the best in my collection.
The collars are what make them a true standout. Mentioned before, but a common complaint of polos is that the collars, usually made from ribbed cotton, become misshapen after washing. They’ll curl under and won’t stay flat or upright. Kent’s are constructed in the same way a typical button-up shirt’s collar would be; two layers of fabric sewn together. Sure, they’re a little thicker than what you’re used to, but they hold their shape extraordinarily well. Why is that important? A strong collar helps to frame your face – having one that actually keeps is a pretty rare thing indeed. The thick Mother of Pearl buttons are another touch of luxury - uncommon at this price point. I’ve been extremely pleased with the two I have thus far. Unless you’ve got some money to burn, it doesn’t make much sense getting any more expensive than these – Brunello Cucinelli, Olebar Brown, or Thom Browne can’t really make you a polo that’ll last any longer or fit any better than these would.
Side note: If considering them, do pay attention to their sizing – I’ve found the warnings about how slim-fitting KW polos are to be somewhat exaggerated. Yes, you should size up, but they don’t run as small as some would have you believe. I typically wear a Medium – the Large from KW fit beautifully.
The "Unsure??":
Epaulet and Sunspel – Never had the pleasure, but I hear good things. Can anyone speak to that? I’m interested to know :]
Logos
You know what? I don’t mind ‘em. In fact, I think they add a certain charm if done well. There are some requirements, however. They’ve got to be small, they’ve got to be embroidered, and they have to be tasteful.
Though I can’t quite explain it, I think these only work on pique cotton polos. They wouldn't look right on more casual versions. Maybe it’s just because I’m so used to seeing them. I wish I could articulate the reason why, but I just don’t feel like a walking billboard wearing one with a little logo. The huge patches or screened-on logo though….hideous…
^ hhmmm…I feel much differently about these..
To Tuck or not to Tuck
It depends. Would you tuck a super casual (and slightly rumpled) chambray polo into a pair of shorts? No, of course you wouldn’t. I’m sure the people who do this must be thinking that they’re formalizing their outfit some by tucking it in – looks bad, man.
Could you tuck a pique cotton polo into shorts? I suppose – I’ve seen some pretty decent Prep examples. Golfers and yachtsmen rock this look all the time, though not often successfully.
Could you tuck a crisp pique cotton polo into some pressed chinos? Sure, I could see that. Especially if you’re dressing for work.
If you’re trying for a more casual, youthful look, go untucked. Jeans, shorts, flat front chinos, and linen trousers = untucked polos (most times..there are always exceptions).
How about the Front Tuck?
I used to do it all the time – sometimes you just want to show off your belt, I get it. Though you’ll still see the front tuck on models in product shots, I can’t get behind that anymore. I don’t recommend it, but if you’re going to do it anyway, make sure it’s subtle. Nowadays I'll use the belt end to pinch a little of the shirt back/up.
^ You don't have to do this...I just like it.
In Conclusion
So what’d I miss? If you’ve got some advice to give, let’s hear it! If you’d like to tip us off to some great lesser known brands, tell us! Otherwise, I hope this guide was worth a read. Carry on, fellas :]