How the basic wardrobe has changed: a 2023 supplement to a 2016 MFA staple
There are a lot of newcomers to MFA who don't know where to start, or, folks who used to read MFA back in 2013-2017 then get confused when the pieces that were touted as "timeless and classic" aren't seen as very fashionable today. The Building a Basic Wardrobe and The Basic Bastard guides still give great advice for those starting out, and are still relevant today. However, I wanted to offer a brief "2023 Supplement" so that newcomers, or those interested in how men's fashion has changed in recent years, can be brought up-to-date.
It's worth noting men's fashion hasn't undergone any dramatic changes since 2016. Indigo denim, t-shirts, chinos, leather shoes, sneakers, sweaters, sweatshirts, and jackets all remain wardrobe staples. The main differences include changes to how things fit - specifically, loosening and relaxation of the slim-fitted silhouette.
1. Pants
Slim fitting pants used to be the MFA go-to recommendation. Levi's 510 (skinny), 511 (slim), or J. Crew 484 fit pants were recommended all the time. However, these days, skinny, slim tapered, and even slim pants are generally not recommended. Instead, look for straight fit, regular fit, or relaxed fit pants. For example, Levi's 501 and 505 are examples of straight fits, and J. Crew's 770 (slim straight) or relaxed fit chinos will look more fashionable. Wide fitting pants can look great but are by no means a staple - check out recent WAYWTs for examples.
Additionally, bigger/higher cuffs that show off tops of sneakers/boots socks are out of style. Small cuffs or no break looks are safe options, although raw hem looks are currently having a moment.
2. Shirts and Tops
Similar to the pants, slim and tight shirts aren't highly recommended anymore. This arguably is less important than the pants, and slim fitting shirts can still look fine. But, instead of a slim-fit patterned button down, flannel, or OCBD, consider reaching for a regular fit one. Same goes with sweaters and sweatshirts - for example, chunkier, textured sweaters are more in style right now than slim thin merino sweaters.
3. Footwear
Sneakers with chunkier profiles rather than flat, sleek silhouettes are more popular in 2023 than they were in 2016. The "slim minimal white sneakers" that MFA loved, such as Common Projects Achilles and white converse, are still perfectly wearable today, but chunky sneakers such as AF1s and New Balances (tons of model options) can go nicely with the more relaxed and less slim pants and shirts described above.
Boat shoes, unfortunately, got too engrained in the frat bro style that they became unpopular. Other handsewns like 3-eye lug soles, blucher mocs, or loafers are great alternatives that can be worn in pretty much any outfit that boat shoes can.
Other footwear that are not on trend right now include chukkas, (sorry, MFA classics) monkstraps / double monkstraps, slim Chelsea boots, and slim casual derbies. Keep an eye out for chunkier or more rounded versions of these shoes, such as these derbies or these derbies. Chunkier loafers like these can go great in casual outfits, too.
4. Tailoring
When it comes to suits, sport coats, trousers, dress shirts, and ties, we see a similar loosening of silhouette. For example, skinny suits with thin lapels and skinny ties are dated. This article is 10 years old but absolutely applies today.
5. Accessories
MFA used to hate crew socks with shorts ("Socks with shorts? Generally avoid"). These days, crew socks with shorts is fine.
MFA used to also hate white socks in pretty much any situation especially if they were visible (the same guide says "Never white"). White socks have made a bit of a comeback and give a bit of an ivy flair to outfits, especially with loafers. Wear em if you like em.
So, how has the basic wardrobe changed?
If you're not interested how menswear has changed in the past ~10 years or what's on/off trend and just want a basic shopping list to get started, the basic bastard wardrobe still applies with only a couple of small tweaks, the main one being that everything shouldn't necessarily fit slim.
In Conclusion
The "classic and timeless" slim-fit everything was a trend, we just didn't realize it. Regular fits, straight fits, looser fits, or relaxed fits will make you look like you're dressing in 2023 rather than in 2016.
In 10 years this guide will be outdated. Yes, straighter-cut pants and contemporary cut shirts are "in" right now, but if you truly want to build a "timeless" wardrobe, don't buy clothes just because they're trending. "Slim pants are outdated so buy straight pants" is terrible advice because it fails to account for the fact that fashion is cyclical and in 10 years, wider fitting pants will be seen as uncool and unflattering while slim cut pants will be seen as flattering and form fitting. Don't buy clothes based off of what's cool right now. The most important thing when buying clothes is 1) if they look good on your personal body type and 2) if you'll actually wear them because you actually like them. So don't buy slim/straight-fit pants/shirts just because that's what's "cool" at the moment, see which one fits you better and buy based on that.