Guide to Topcoats and Overcoats
Intro
Going through the Wiki I was surprised that we didn't have a guide on topcoats or overcoats, so this is a stab at a very basic overview.
What are they?
Topcoats and overcoats are long styled fall and winter coats which have been a trend for the past couple years. Traditionally they were worn with business casual stuff and suiting, but over the last few years they've been worn more and more with casual stuff.
They originated in the 18th century and have been worn both by soldiers and civilians alike. In the mid to late 20th century they were worn by subcultures like the skinheads (suedeheads), mods, and teddy boys. In the 1980s they entered the mainstream by the way of professional power dressing and being in the spotlight of Italian designers, like Giorgio Armani.
The main difference between an overcoat and a topcoat is weight and length. Whereas an overcoat is generally made from a heavier fabric such as heavy wool or cotton, a topcoat may come in a more lighter wools material. Topcoats are also typically shorter than an men’s overcoat, and end just above the knees.
Inspiration Albums
Items to Consider for F/W 2015: The Overcoat (starts pic 26)
On fit
If you're looking to wear them over a blazer or suit jacket they need to be roomy enough. Most traditional brands are sized so you can do this already, so don't size up.
Some fast fashion brands like Asos, H&M and Zara assume you're going to be wearing them more casually so you can't usually fit a structured jacket under them, unless you size up that is.
If you're aiming to wear an overcoat over a suit opt for the sleeves being slightly longer than your suit jackets and the length to be just above the knees, to slightly longer if you live somewhere really cold with snow.
If you're aiming to just wear a topcoat casually sans-suiting then you can opt for just above the knee to mid-thigh. If you're short of stature than mid-thigh tends to work best.
If you're aiming for a slouchy oversized look try to find a topcoat or overcoat which is not structured in the shoulders.
On colour
Generally the colours from most casual to formal would be:
Camel
Non-conventional like olive, burgundy, etc.
Grey
Navy
Black
On material
Usually you want a high amount of wool, particularly for colder weather. However sometimes a bit of polyester or another fabric can be added to add strength and longevity to the fabric used. So don't be scared away by 90% wool and 10% polyester mixes. Once it gets to 70% wool content and below, it's probably more of a cost cutting measure and you should be wary. The caveat would be if you want a light topcoat for the style and aren't wearing primarily as a deep winter coat, if so, go nuts.
If you're looking at cashmere then opt for a mix with a bit of polyester or other materials. 100% cashmere will be luxurious, but it won't last long.
Other considerations
Lapels - most coats will come with notched lapels which is a more classic look. However you can also opt for peaked laps which was a minor trend a few years ago. They grab more visual attention and can be a nice feature.
Single breasted or double breasted. Single breasted the easiest to wear and pairs better with more casual stuff. Double breasted is attention grabbing and can sometimes overwhelm the person wearing it.
Pockets - most topcoats and overcoats will have 'regular' pockets, pipped, patch with flap, or patch pockets. From most casual to formal would be: patch pocket, patch with flap , 'regular' pocket, pipped.
Lining - similar to suit or blazer jackets you have different types of lining. A fully lined or half lined jacket will be warmer since you have an air pocket between the outer shell and lining. The Unlined jacket will be cooler but may also drape a bit better.
Shoulder padding/structured v unstructured - similar to suit and blazer jackets again you can get topcoats with or without padding. Having shoulder padding will give structured to a coat whereas not having any will create an unstructured drapey and more casual look. This also pairs well with oversized fits and styles.
Buttons - buttons which match are metal will evoke more of a military feel. Most buttons though will either be plastic matte, matching the colour of garment or black.
Buying retail
Generally the higher your budget the better coat you can get. Usually you get higher wool content and better quality fabric. You also pay for a brands particular design or aesthetic. That's not to say that anything in the low category is abysmal quality, just that they are recommendations if you have what people usually call a 'low', 'small' or 'cheap budget'. Plus in part converting USD, to CAD, to Euro, to GBP becomes a real hassle in formatting a list like this.
Recommendations:
Low
Uniqlo
J.Crew Factory
Asos
Goodfellow and Co
GAP
Topman
Weekday
Zara
JCPenny Stafford
H&M
Old Navy
Next (UK)
Medium
Marks & Spencers (UK)
J.Crew Ludlow
Banana Republic
Suit Supply
Spier and Mackay
MKI Miyuki Zoku
Reiss (UK)
Club Monaco
Our Legacy
APC
Bonobos
Folk
High
Aspesi
Ring Jacket
Crombie
Lol Money
Brunello Cucinelli
Drakes
Burberry
Prada
Gucci
Saint Laurent
This is a non-comprehensive list. If anyone has any more recommendations feel free to comment below!
Buying secondhand or thrifting
See Beginner's Guide to Buying Expensive Clothes for Less
If you don't want to buy retail and pay RRP then you can consider thrifting for the above brands on eBay, Grailed, TheRealReal, or designer specific buyer/sell groups on Facebook.
Further reading and posts referenced
Your Favorite ___ for $___: Overcoats