Thanks to everyone who gave me criticism on my first attempt at updating the suiting guide!
Purpose of this Guide
This guide is aimed at somebody who wants to know more about the details involved in men's suiting. It's light on things related to but not directly about a suit such as accessories. This was done for two reasons, the primary one being that they are covered elsewhere on MFA and linked to when necessary. Also if I included them in this guide it would have gotten incredibly long and far afield. Without further ado, the guide itself:
Table Of Contents
Main Post:
Fit
Jackets
Supplementary Comment #1:
Pants
Vest (Waistcoat)
Material & Color
Accessories
Supplementary Comment #2:
Purchasing
Inspiration
Credits
Fit
The most important part of the suit is the fit. One illustration on the importance of fit can be seen here. Another example. Note that the second image is done by GQ and hence tighter and more fashion forward than most men want to aim for.
How Should My Suit Fit? - I'm going to be doing this a lot here, but if you want to know in depth how all these items should fit, check out shujin's excellent guide on the sidebar. The short bare bones version is that you want your pants to hang like this, with a single break at the top of your shoes. Proper jacket fitting can be seen here.
Alterations - Almost anything in a suit can be altered. The most important thing however is the shoulder fit - while it technically can be altered, you need an extremely good tailor and it'll be highly expensive, so you're best off making sure this fits off the rack. For more details on the prices/difficulty of various alterations procedures, I'll direct you to alteration guides at Art of Manliness and Put This On.
--Jackets--
Single versus Double breasted - The difference is illustrated here. There are many variations on this basic difference, mentioned and illustrated throughout the guide where appropriate - primarily in the chest button section.
Cuff Buttons - Cuff buttons can be either functional, called surgeon's cuffs, or sewn on only as decoration. Keep in mind that buying a jacket with surgeon's cuffs makes it very difficult to get the sleeve length altered.
Chest Buttons
-Single breasted have between one and three buttons. Two buttons is the most traditional, and if this is your first suit you'll want to get a two button. Single button jackets offer a sleek fashion forward look but are harder to pull off, and are less formal than a two button. Three button come in two further subvariations. The first is simply three buttons, as seen here. This is often rather awkwardly looking due to the very high closure that it sports. It almost looks like a double breasted jacket in this respect but only has one row of buttons and looks less filled out in my opinion.
A more popular variation on the three button is known as the 3 roll 2 configuration, where the suit has three buttons but the topmost button and buttonhole are rolled under the lapel. Some examples can be seen here and here. This works best with half or full canvas jackets (more further down) as they naturally roll as opposed to looking flat. Most times this will look just like a two button suit, and is generally not a common detail in off the rack suits.
-Double breasted is most common with two columns of three buttons each called the 6x2 (said "six on two"), as seen here. One set is functional, while the other is decorative. Though other configurations exist, this is the classic option. On the traditional double breasted suit jacket, the top two buttons will be too far offset to actually be buttoned, forming a V shape. This follows the line of the peak lapel and forms a V shape that accentuates the shoulders. There are a wide variety of different button options available, but the classix 6x2 is the safest bet.
-But How Many Do I Button? If your suit has only one button, keep it buttoned. For a single breasted suit with two buttons, only the top button should be buttoned. On a three button suit, both single and double breasted, the bottom button is always open, the middle always buttoned, and the top is a matter of preference. With a 3 roll 2 configuration the top should remain unbuttoned. Additionally, a single breasted jacket should be unbuttoned when you are seated and buttoned back when standing. A double breasted should stay buttoned at all times.
Lapels
For suits, the most common option is the notch lapel. A flashier option is the peak lapel, which can serve to broaden your shoulders if the rest of the jacket fits well. Peak lapels are more common on a double breasted suit, though they can work for single breasted as well. The other option is a shawl collar. In most cases however (like the picture) shawl collar is best left to black tie. A good rule of thumb for lapel size is 2.5 to 3 inches. Beyond this they should generally be proportionate to your body - if you're very thin you can get away with thinner lapels, which is a trendier option, while bigger guys can do slightly bigger lapels.
Vents
You can have one, two, or zero vents in your jacket. Two vents tends to be the most flattering style on everyone - it gives a slight hourglass shape which makes your shoulders larger. One vent can work as well, and provides a sleeker looking option. It tends to draw attention to your rear more than two vents however, so keep that in mind whether that's something you want or not. No vents should really only be done on a tuxedo.
Length
The safest bet for jacket sleeve length is to show a little bit of shirt sleeve, approximately 1/4 inch, and make sure your jacket cuffs are the same size as your shirt cuffs. For reference, dress shirts should come down to the base of the thumb. For a more in-depth explanation, see this article. The bottom of the jacket itself should rest about halfway down your thumb with your hands hanging by your side.
Pockets
Jacket pockets can come in any of five different styles: jetted, flap, ticket pocket, patch, and bellows. Jetted pockets are the most formal. These are typically on a tuxedo and not a suit. The most common pocket for a suit jacket is the flap pocket. The ticket pocket or pouch isn't a pocket style itself, but is a small pocket typically just above a standard pocket. Occasionally you'll see jackets with patch pockets - avoid these unless you're intentionally buying a casual suit. The final type of pocket is the bellows pocket. This is best left to things like hunting jackets such as the one pictured, and has no real place on a suit.
Construction
Jackets can be either fused, half canvas, or full canvas, in order from cheapest to most expensive. Canvas jackets have more shape to them which allow them to drape better across the body, making them desirable. However, this method is much more expensive than using a fusible material. If you want more details Put This On has a good article about jacket construction.
Stance
The stance of a jacket is a term that refers to the height of the first closed button, or more specifically where the two sides of the jacket meet. A high stance, like the one seen on the gentleman to the left will make you look shorter, while a low stance like this one will make you appear taller. Obviously, which one you want depends on your personal physique. Single breasted suits lend themselves better to low stances while double breasted tend to have higher stances. Related to the stance is the gorge, or where the notch in the lapel sits; you can read more about it here.
Shoulders
There are a myriad of style options available for shoulder cuts or expressions on a suit, and there are many terms used to describe them - British, Italian, Roman, American. However, the basic difference between them comes down to the shoulder seam. There are three kinds of seams available - roped, flat, and knocked down. If you're unsure what type of shoulder you're getting, a flat shoulder seam with a small amount of padding is typically the default off the rack shoulder. It also tends to be the most universally flattering. However, this only scratches the surface on shoulder detailing – for a more in depth guide see this Style Forum guide on shoulder expression as well as this article by Parisian Gentleman.
--Pants--
Pleats
Pleated pants generally aren't flattering, and as such most places will recommend you avoid them. However, pleated pants can look good with the proper fit. When wearing a suit jacket it will usually cover whether your pants are pleated or not, so they will often go better with a double breasted jacket as it stays closed. The main point in favor of pleats is that they offer more space and comfort than flat front pants do. The majority of pleated pants do not have a flattering cut however, so when in doubt it's best to go with flat front pants.
Break
Break is the term used to describe where the line of the trousers, well, breaks. A visual list of them can be found here. Suit pants break at the top of your shoe. This picture is another example of a quarter break. A half or quarter break is generally the best option for most men - a full break can make the suit look sloppy or like it doesn't fit, and no break is a more fashion forward look. While more than one break can look good on jeans, it isn't a flattering look when worn with trousers.
Cuffs
Cuffing is the practice of turning up the bottom of your pants for various effects. Here is Marlon Brando cuffing his pants in order to show off his boots. This picture is a little more germane to this discussion since it features a man in a suit with cuffed pants. Cuffing slacks can be used to create the appearance of shorter legs by adding more visual weight to the bottom of the legs, as well as letting the fabric hang more. Some further suggestions for when to cuff, as well as a history of cuffing, can be found at The Parisian Gentleman.
Rise
Rise refers to how much height there is between the crotch and waistband of pants. A suit is traditionally worn with mid or high rise pants, which will sit at your natural waist - near your navel. This contrasts with low rise pants, which sit closer to the hips - think how most jeans are worn. A lower rise will lengthen your body, while a higher rise will shorten it. This also depends on body proportion, so simply try on some suit pants and see what fits you better.
--Vest (Waistcoat)--
Types
Much like jackets, vests have a variety of options. The classic vest is single breasted with four to five buttons, with no lapels. In 95% of cases, this is what you'll want, and what's implied if you say vest (or waistcoat). There exist double breasted options as well as options that feature shawl or other lapels; these are typically meant to be black or even white tie waist coverings.
Wear
Vests are best worn with single-breasted suits. They can be worn with double-breasted, but in most cases you wouldn't be able to see the vest, making it unnecessary. They are not a necessity, but they do make a suit more formal than it would otherwise be, as well as warmer. A vest should match the material and color of the suit, hence the term three piece suit. As with jackets, the bottom button should remain undone on a vest.
Note on Terminology - Outside the US, what we refer to as vests are called waistcoats.
Materials & Color
A more in-depth look at materials is beyond the scope of this guide, but here's a few you'll likely come across relative to suiting:
Wool - The most versatile material; if this is your first suit purchase (and you don't live somewhere warm year-round) you should get wool.
Cotton - A good choice for a summer suit. Thinner than wool, but still a formal material. Cotton can be reliably worn three seasons of the year, but if you live somewhere that's relatively warm year round you could pick up cotton for your first suit.
Linen - Almost exclusive for a summer suit. Linen is quite cool, making it ideal for a summer suit, but it also wrinkles easily. This makes it harder to get a real crisp look; as such linen is a much more casual fabric to have a suit made out of.
Seersucker - A staple of the (American) south, Seersucker suits are among the coolest suits you can wear during hot weather. For more details on the history and specifics of seersucker, see here. For ideas on how to wear a seersucker suit, see here.
Colors - The most versatile color to get a suit in is charcoal or navy. Black suits (In the US) are generally best kept for funerals. Other options exist, such as white, but as a general rule I'd stay away from these - they carry a risk of looking like a teenager who rented one for prom.
Patterns - Classic patterns for suits tend to be very fine. If you have to get within a couple feet of the material to notice the pattern, it's likely fine. This includes things like herringbone, sharkskin, Prince of Wales check, and houndstooth. Large versions of the above go well with sport coats or a similar very casual material. Louder patterns like tartan and plaid are difficult to pull off in a full suit, and for a business environment are inappropriate.
Accessories
Ties - Tie width should match the width of the lapels. As for matching your suit in terms of color, check out the color guide on the sidebar as well as the tie guide on the sidebar. Bow Ties are an option - again, see the sidebar'd guide - but if you're still fairly new to MFA/fashion in general you're better off sticking to a regular necktie.
Pocket Square - Pocket squares are one of the accessories you have the most freedom with. Definitely check the color guide as well as this guide to creating outfits that work. There aren't as many "rules" governing pocket squares as most other parts of the suit. The primary one is don't get a tie and pocket square of the same material and pattern. There's a guide to these on the sidebar as well. Finally, Put This On has an article on pocket squares.
Belts - Should approximately match your shoes in color, be relatively thin, and leather. Further reading can be found on the sidebar, as you probably guessed.
Suspenders - Suspenders are an alternative to belts. They create a more seamless look than a belt because they're all but invisible, especially under a waist covering. A belt in contrast creates a line that divides you in half.
Shoes - /u/jdbee has already written an awesome guide to dress shoes on the - wait for it - sidebar!. The short version is that you want leather shoes, probably either wingtip or cap toe tyle. Wingtips would pair with a more informal suit, while cap toe are more formal.
To tie this all together, be sure to check out this awesome guide by Syeknom on matching all the above accessories!
Purchasing
MTM versus OTR - The biggest choice you'll have to make about suit purchasing is whether to buy a made to measure suit (MTM) or a suit off the rack (OTR). With a MTM suit, as the name implies, somebody takes your measurements - or in the case of online retailers, you take your own - and a suit is built specific to those measurements. The trade off of course is this method tends to be more expensive and takes longer to receive your suit. Off the rack on the other hand means buying a suit as it comes from the retailer. With an off the rack suit, you're going to want to get some alterations done so it fits you better. Many department stores will offer this service if you buy your suit from them, but look around and see if you have any local tailors that can do alterations as well.
Online Ordering: A Caution - Generally, your first suit – or first couple – shouldn't be bought online. There's a couple reasons for this, and the first reason is also the simplest. The best way to see how a suit is going to fit you is trying one on in the store – there's a lot that goes into suit fitting, and if you're new to suiting, you won't necessarily catch all the little details. Additionally, there will be some kind of salesperson there to help you. Now, this can be a little more hit and miss – some salespeople will have no idea what they are really doing. On the other hand, some have been working with clothes for much of their lives, and could point out things you miss. If the place you're ordering from has a great return policy, you can afford to take more of a chance in this department. Just something to keep in mind for anyone new to suiting.
Bespoke - Bespoke refers to a garment made entirely to the customer's specifications - a paper pattern is created just for them, which the tailor then uses to make all their suits. Here you can see a room full of patterns, each for a specific customer. Some of the advantages of bespoke include being able to tweak your pattern as you gain or lose weight as well as getting every single detail you want. This of course, comes at a price - bespoke is the most expensive suiting option available.
Cheap Suits - The biggest disadvantage of a cheap suit is durability. They also typically need a lot of alterations to look good because they're build to fit the highest number of men. That being said, there's a time and a place to buy a cheap suit. For example, if you're a student (like myself) you'll typically only get 5-10 wears of a suit per year. Durability isn't as much of an issue here as price. On the other hand, if you wear suits every day, you'll absolutely want to invest in a quality suit - a cheap suit will start to fall apart relatively quickly with that kind of heavy use. Finally, your options will be more limited with budget suiting. The higher the price point, the more non-standard options for details you'll typically find.
Budget Suiting
H&M $100-150
Caution:* H&M clothing in general tends to be more trendy. They also have notably shoddy quality checking - there's wide variance in quality in the same item.
Macy's $150-250
JC Penney $150-250 (Can be gotten for less on clearance)
J Crew Factory $300-350
Off The Rack
J. Crew: $500-600
Banana Republic: $400-500
SuitSupply: $450-999 - often recommended on MFA
eHaberdasher: $500+
Brooks Brothers: $450+
Made To Measure
Indochino: $400-500
Black Lapel: $450-650
Thick As Thieves: $480+
Proper Suit: $850+
Inspiration
Album 1 - Courtesy of /u/inherentlyawesome
Credits
/u/blitzkrieg3 and /u/monolithdigital for the original suit guide
/u/Captain_Unremarkable for the purchasing list
Thanks to everyone who gave me comments on what to improve on the last iteration!
A huge huge thanks to everyone who has written guides elsewhere here that I can rely on
/u/Captainsaicin for making the case for pleats
/u/inherentlyawesome for putting together the inspiration album and some good points on MTM online ordering
For some extra information, I recommend this BBC documentary